Shibamata Area-Step into old Tokyo-
※updated on July 2 2025
About 40 minutes by train from Tokyo Station, there is an area filled with nostalgic streets and the setting of a beloved Japanese movie. This is Shibamata in Katsushika city, where visitors are captivated by the old-fashioned atmosphere, various power spots within the temple grounds, and magnificent carvings. The area gives you a feeling of stepping back in time.
Historically, Tokyo was largely divided into the upscale “Yamanote” area on the hills and the working-class “Shitamachi” area in the lowlands. Shibamata still retains the charming, down-to-earth atmosphere of Shitamachi, which is one of its biggest attractions for tourists.
At the heart of Shibamata is the famous Nichiren Buddhist temple, Daikyo-ji (commonly known as Shibamata Taishakuten), surrounded by a retro downtown ambiance that draws visitors from both Japan and abroad.
In this article, we will introduce the main attractions of the Shibamata area, along with its historical background and access information, in an easy-to-understand way.
Access
From JR Tokyo Station: Take the JR Yamanote Line (inner loop) to Nippori Station. Transfer to the Keisei Main Line and get off at Shibamata Station. The total travel time is about 40 minutes, and the fare is 450 yen.
・Tora-san Statue
The main reason why the Shibamata area is so beloved across Japan is that it serves as the setting for the nationally cherished film series “Otoko wa Tsurai yo” (“It’s Tough Being a Man”). The series began as a TV drama in 1968 and later became a long-running film franchise. With 48 films featuring the same lead character, it holds the Guinness World Record for the most films starring the same character.
The protagonist, Tora-san, is a rough-mannered but warm-hearted man who travels from town to town, falling in love and often facing heartbreak. Through his story, the films portray family bonds, encounters between people, and the warmth of the Japanese spirit, delivering both laughter and heartfelt emotions. This beloved human drama has captivated audiences for decades.
Shibamata, as the backdrop of the series, has become a “sacred pilgrimage” site for fans who visit the locations featured in the films and dramas. Even today, visitors can find spots that still retain the atmosphere of the movies.
In front of Shibamata Station stands a statue of Tora-san, capturing the moment he sets off on a journey. Gazing in the direction of the statue is another statue of his sister, Sakura, who watches him with a worried expression. These two statues symbolize the bittersweet emotions of departure and farewell, quietly reminding visitors of life’s farewells and the strength of family ties.
Shibamata is a retro neighborhood that preserves the Showa era’s charm while coexisting with the modern world. It is especially popular among international tourists who appreciate its nostalgic feel, offering an experience like stepping back into old Japan.
・The Three Wise Monkeys (San-zaru)
Japan has a long-standing tradition known as Koshin faith. According to this belief, on the night of Koshin — which occurs every 60 days — three worms called Sanshi inside a person’s body ascend to heaven while the person sleeps and report that individual’s misdeeds to the gods. It was believed that if bad deeds were reported, the person’s lifespan would be shortened. To prevent this, people held gatherings called Koshin-machi, where they stayed awake all night to avoid letting the Sanshi leave their bodies.
The symbol of this faith is the Three Wise Monkeys (San-zaru). Each monkey covers its eyes, ears, or mouth, representing the proverb: “See no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil.” This teaches the importance of living with restraint by not seeing, speaking, or hearing others’ wrongdoings.
Just outside Shibamata Station, near the first intersection, a small stone statue of the Three Wise Monkeys quietly sits nestled among the foliage. Though easy to miss due to its size, this charming statue watches over visitors gently and is definitely worth stopping to see.
Such monkey statues, inspired by Koshin faith, can be found scattered throughout the Shibamata area. Monkeys are also considered messengers of Taishakuten, the temple deity. Along the way to the temple, behind the “Taishakuten King Enshrinement Monument,” you’ll find another monkey statue. Exploring Shibamata by searching for these little monkeys adds a fun and meaningful layer to your visit.
・Shibamata Haikara Yokocho
On the way from Shibamata Station to the Taishakuten temple’s approach street, you’ll find a striking retro candy shop that stands out. Outside the shop, a robot-shaped vending machine and a uniquely triangular roof catch your eye, creating a nostalgic yet slightly mysterious atmosphere.
Inside, countless snacks line the shelves—like a dream for children—while nostalgic Showa-era arcade games bring back memories for adults. It’s a space where time seems to have stopped, letting visitors experience the traditional Japanese dagashi (cheap candy) shop culture from nearly 100 years ago.
One highlight is the old-fashioned games you can enjoy for just 10 yen (about 0.07 USD). Be sure to bring some coins and play like children of the past did. This spot offers a delightful little time travel experience during your stroll through Shibamata.
・Famous Quotes from Tora-san
In the Shibamata area, you can find several displays featuring memorable quotes from Tora-san, the beloved protagonist of the “Otoko wa Tsurai yo” (It’s Tough Being a Man) series. Here is one notable exchange:
Sakura: “You know, brother, whenever you’re going through hard times, you can always come back home.”
Tora-san: “Sakura, about that… it’s because of thoughts like that that I can never truly be a grown-up. Home is…”
This line is said to be spoken by a heartbroken Tora-san just before the train doors close, as he sets off on his journey. What Tora-san intended to say next is left unknown, inviting viewers to imagine and reflect.
What feelings does this quote evoke in you?
Shibamata is more than just a tourist destination—it’s a place that, through the enduring popularity of Tora-san, offers life lessons and encourages visitors to reflect on their own journeys.
・Taishakuten Omotesando
The stone-paved approach to Shibamata Taishakuten Temple is a charming street filled with the nostalgic atmosphere of Tokyo’s traditional downtown. Stretching about 200 meters, this path is lined with shops offering a variety of local specialties, including Shibamata’s famous kusadango (sweet mugwort rice dumplings), freshly grilled senbei rice crackers, ice cream, and long-established eel restaurants.
As you make your way to Taishakuten, why not pick something that catches your eye and enjoy a leisurely food stroll while soaking in the retro ambiance of the street?
・Shibamata Taishakuten Temple
Shibamata Taishakuten, officially named Keieizan Daikyoji Temple, is a Nichiren Buddhist temple founded in 1629. Its main deity, Taishakuten, is widely revered as a guardian god in Buddhism, attracting many visitors who come to pray for protection from misfortune, family safety, and good fortune.
Walking along the charming stone-paved approach from Shibamata Station, you will soon arrive at the magnificent Nitenmon gate. This is the temple’s main gate, housing statues of Zōchōten on the right and Kōmokuten on the left. The gate is adorned with intricate carvings, including depictions of monkeys, believed to be Taishakuten’s messengers. Some sections are protected by wire mesh, but the detailed craftsmanship is impressive and worth photographing.
Just before the gate on the left stands the impressive Daishoro bell tower, approximately 10 meters tall. Its grandeur and solemn presence are sure to captivate all who see it.
Entering the temple grounds through the gate, you will be greeted by the statue of Jogyo Bosatsu, believed to purify the mind and body from impurities. Many visitors pause here to pray.
Before approaching the main hall, cleanse yourself with the sacred water known as Goshinsui. Behind this area is a rocky spot adorned with numerous white snake statues. Among them, a striking double-headed white snake holding a sacred jewel symbolizes rebirth, growth, and financial luck, as the white snake is traditionally associated with renewal through shedding its skin.
Near the main hall stands the iconic “Zuiryu no Matsu” (Auspicious Dragon Pine). Its thick, strong trunk and wide-spreading branches resemble a dragon in flight, giving the tree its name. The majestic shape, lush green needles, and the traditional wooden architecture of the main hall create a stunning contrast that draws the attention of every visitor.
The greatest highlight within the temple grounds is the Carving Gallery that adorns the exterior walls of the main hall. Over ten skilled sculptors dedicated ten years to complete these exquisite wooden carvings, which depict scenes from the Lotus Sutra. These deeply carved, meticulously composed artworks encircle the entire main hall, showcasing incredible attention to detail and artistic beauty that captivates visitors endlessly.
Behind the main hall lies Suikeien, a traditional stroll-style garden. Moss-covered stones and the gentle sound of flowing water blend harmoniously into the serene atmosphere, providing a soothing and tranquil space to relax and reflect.
Additionally, Shibamata is famously known as the setting for the beloved Japanese film series Otoko wa Tsurai yo (“It’s Tough Being a Man”). The protagonist, Tora-san, frequently returns to this “hometown,” making it a place dear to many people’s hearts even today.
With its deep roots in faith, culture, and nostalgic downtown atmosphere, Shibamata Taishakuten warmly embraces all visitors and stands as one of Tokyo’s most cherished landmarks.
A short walk west from Shibamata Taishakuten leads you to the Edo River and its spacious riverbanks. This open area offers a refreshing atmosphere and is a relaxing spot where seasonal flowers bloom beautifully. Here, the traditional ferry service called Yagiri no Watashi still operates, allowing visitors to cross the river by small boats, preserving an old-fashioned ferry culture. When visiting Taishakuten, be sure to take some time to explore this charming riverside area as well.
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